Rome…another day, another church …but what mysteries lurk beneath?   The Basilica of San Clemente.  First we examined and studied the frescos (Viii century); the pigments available at the time and the technical construction that has preserved so many for so long;  but below the Basilica, a darkness enters one’s very being as one descends into the depths. . . and arrives at the Mithraic Temple and the School of Mithraism.  

Mithraeum beneath San Clemente Church, Rome, Italy. Photo © Sacred Destinations

To walk along these 2nd century narrow passages many feet below ground you can almost hear the cries of the initiates and smell the blood of the sacrificial bull.  The stones are carved depicting Mithras as a young man in the act of slaying the bull with a short sword into the neck, symbolising the dynamic sexual forces within himself.   What an extraordinary cult it was and so very nearly overwhelmed Christianity (they ran side by side for many years).  As it was only available to men, was secretive and exclusive, there does appear to be some resemblance to rugby and soccer changing rooms, but the sexual and psychic power are seductive.  Photography was forbidden but I managed one picture before being caught!

Of course, I have not told you all – how can one in a city so rich?  The current exhibitions were worth a glance, particularly the Caravaggio, and to see again the skilled master at work poses the same old questions; where were the Anger Management Courses when they were needed and did he play with prostitutes or rent boys?  As ever fascinating.   Also playing …so to speak …in the drama of life was an Edward Hopper exhibition, but here I fail you as I just couldn’t muster the enthusiasm to see it.     My therapist would, of course, read more into this than I care to divulge.  

Lady Jane
European Correspondent